Day 8. Primitivo Pilgrims

June 11, 2015
Padrón to Castroverde
Distance:  34 kilometers
Steps:  45,507
Stairs equivalent:  143 floors
Agony level:  4
With the exception of two hills, today was an agony level 3 hike. The hills were back-to-back gravel-kissers that had me stopping often to catch my breath.

I was rather proud of myself for finding all of the yellow arrows today. Sometimes it’s like an Easter egg hunt out there. Several people weren’t so lucky and walked an extra four kilometers, having missed a critical arrow.

  Jéan Christmas made us a wonderful dinner of pork chops with a mushroom sauce. He lamented the quality of the available cream and how dare these Spanish try to pass their bread off as baguettes.

In addition to Jéan Christmas and the mostly normal pilgrims there are a couple other Camino characters that need mentioning.

First are the “Picnic Poles”, a middle-aged couple who generally stick to themselves. She gets up before 5:00 each day to wash and blow dry her hair before going out to get sweaty. Then she goes through the whole routine again after hiking. Whenever anyone runs into them, they are having a picnic along the trail, something they do several times a day.

Then the are the Lithuanians, a young couple that can often be found occupying one twin bed. It’s a bit awkward but we try to ignore it. He is about 6’0″, she is about 6’3″. I’ve never seen a woman that tall or that beautiful!

Young Dottie, another Pole now living in London, is walking to get over the loss of the love of her life. It’s been three years since he left and she’s still hanging on.

Lastly, there is Perro, the Camino dog. He’s been walking with one or the other of us since day two and we can’t shake him. He’s a friendly, well-behaved dog, unlike the hundreds of farm dogs that bark so loudly when pilgrims pass by. It’s anybody’s guess about what will happen to Perro when we reach Santiago.