June 12, 2015
Castroverde to Lugo
Distance: 23 kilometers
Stairs equivalent: 17
Agony level: 2 (bad leg not factored in)
The hills of yesterday took their toll today. The lower part of my left calf had me struggling, and for a short while I thought about going home. There are no short cuts on the Camino, it’s one painful step after another.
I limped into Lugo in full view of about twenty pilgrims who were waiting for the albergue to open, but no one noticed. They were all talking about Margaret, an Australian woman, who had done a face plant and was on her way to the hospital.
Margaret showed up an hour later full of enthusiasm for the Spanish medical system and sporting nine stitches over her right eye. She said she walked into the ER and was treated immediately. Her cost? 8€ for the taxi rides. Margaret’s excellent treatment is an example of Camino Magic (face plant aside).
After lunch a few of us sought out a Chinese shop (think dollar store) so I could replace an electrical adapter I’d left in an albergue a few days ago. Turns out a couple of other pilgrims had the same idea and I now have three adapters. That’s an example of Camino Magic.
That banana the barmaid gave me to get up the mountain? Another example of Camino Magic. Here’s one last example of Camino Magic: in the middle of my limping and whining today I came around a corner and found a brand new canteen–smack in the middle of nowhere! The machines were stocked with all manner of food and drink, and there was a microwave and sink with running water. Today’s stage had no cafes or places to stop, and this canteen was midway along the hike. I have never seen anything like it.
Note: Camino Magic doesn’t seem to follow me to bed. At the moment my friends are struggling to contain their laughter. Several large Spanish men came into our bunkroom a few minutes ago and have taken up beds around and above me. I politely suggested to one fat man that he might be more comfortable bandaging his blisters while sitting on the sofa (instead of on my bunk). The others have strewn their stuff everywhere around me. Meanwhile, Margaret keeps pretending she’s laughing at some funny thing in the book she’s reading. OMG.