Day 10: Burgos and beyond.

Just the facts
Day 10: Cardenuela to Rabe de la Calzada
Distance: 17.5 miles / 28 km
Time: 5.25 hours
Total to date: 174 miles / 280 km
Aches and pains: Oh, what a difference a day (and a bag of ice) makes.

I arrived in Burgos this morning just as their biggest party of their year, the Fiesta of San Pablo and San Pedro, was getting under way.

The main square in front of the cathedral was crowded with loads of people eager for the festivities to begin. But before they could start celebrating in earnest the bishop and his entourage had to celebrate mass. The cathedral was packed with Catholics and sightseers like me. When the service concluded with the choir singing the Hallelujah Chorus it was enough to give me chills.

For my Skyland choir friends I have to point out that the Burgos Cathedral Choir is behind the pews in the back of the church just as all good choirs are!

Outside a procession began with the arrival of some folks who were larger than life.


Regretfully, I pressed on another seven miles before stopping in Rabe for the night. The albergue is run by a sympathetic woman who took my backpack from me and carried it to my room. There is only one other woman, a German, in this six-bedded room. Sweet. The showers are large and clean, there is even a decent place for pilgrims to wash and dry their diirty clothes. What more could I want?

I bumped into two sixty-ish Italian guys tonight that I’ve seen on and off over the last several days. Each night they cook their own dinner at their albergue and kind of ignore the rest of us. Tonight they were friendly toward a few of us. Maybe I should volunteer to buy the dinner ingredients in exchange for a really good Italian meal.