Day 11. Getting close

June 14, 2015
Ferreira to Ribadiso
Distance: 33 kilometers
Steps: 43,771
Stairs equivalent: 46 floors
Agony level: 2+

Detail of 12th century ironwork on a church.

I was walking down a hill today as an old man in a coat and tie was coaxing his ancient tractor up the slope. I smiled and waved. He blew me a kiss. Spanish men.

I am no longer on the Camino Primitivo–it merged with the Camino Frances some 15 kilometers back. There are people everywhere and the albergues have all been “completo” and I had to walk farther than planned to find a bed. So here I am in a top bunk next to the bathroom. I think I’ll book a private room for tomorrow night.

The various characters in my Primitivo wave have scattered to the wind. Many will stop briefly in Santiago tomorrow before heading to Finesterra, some had to go home early and others have taken a different route. I had to start anew on the social front, something that isn’t easy for me. My Picnic Poles have been replaced by the Personality Poles, two friendly young women who are all smiles and laughter. This afternoon I walked with a Frenchman who couldn’t speak English or Spanish. I felt a little rude leaving him, but without a common language I had no words to politely extract myself.

Some of you will get this.

It was market day in Melide. Anyone care to try making a silk purse?

Time to go book a private room for tomorrow.

Note: I think the annoying bubble gum Spaniard is ahead of me thanks to a ruse the Personality Poles and I cooked up. The Spaniard appeared at a cafe this morning while I was having a break with the Poles. I casually mentioned that I was walking much farther than I really intended. Fingers crossed that the Spaniard and I don’t cross paths again.