June 7, 2015
Bodenaya to Campiello
Distance: 26 kilometers
Stairs equivalent: 84 flights
Agony level: 4
The first two hours of today’s hike were through mud, that stick-to-your-shoes kind of mud that you can’t scrape off. Add an oozing sky and you can be sure that I was happy to get to the albergue.
The hike itself was a long, steady climb. Unlike yesterday, it was gentle with lots of level spots.
Tonight’s albergue has some private rooms so I reserved one, eager for a proper shower and the privacy to snore to my heart’s content. With hindsight I wish I’d just stayed in the albergue.
On checking in, Herminia, the owner, began lecturing me about not having men in my room. I told her it was just me but she didn’t believe me. My room was somewhere between “heck and gone”, and looking at the closet-sized space with a tiny bed I was mourning the loss of a what I thought would be a night’s luxury.
Once Herminia left I went into the miniature bathroom only to find it filled with mops, buckets and cleaning supplies. I had been given the maid’s room.
My husband would have been proud of me at this point because I didn’t march back to the office and demand another room. Instead, I tossed the cleaning equipment and supplies out onto the grass, rejoined my fellow hikers and invited them all to a wild party in my suite.
At dinner, the proprietress came round and sweetly asked how I liked my room. Blast off. We had a shouting match with me asking, in Spanish, how dare she accuse me of having someone else sleep in my room and that I didn’t pay for a camarista’s room, and so on. And further, how dare she charge me 5 euros for breakfast when she charged everyone else 3 euros. And I’m not going to eat your $@;& breakfast so just give me my money back. With so many witnesses Herminia had no choice but to go to her till and bring me back a five euro note.
End of rant.
Tomorrow’s hike is listed as one of the hardest on the Primitivo. It’s time to take a few deep breaths, stretch out in my mini-bed (with my feet hanging off the end) and rest up for tomorrow.